Stand out of Sinop's sunlight

Inceburun lighthouse in Sinop,
the furthest northern point in Turkey.

Sunset view from Sinop's fort.

One of the nicest things about being in Sinop was to remember –yet again- how big and diverse this country is. Located on the Mid-Blacksea coast of Turkey, it is as underrated as Denizli and definitely worth a weekend visit. Interestingly, it is the happiest town in Turkey when in world happiness indexes, Turks are close to the gloomy part of the list, (77th among 156 countries). One of the contributing factors to this happiness may well be that they might know how to live with the least number of things available. Indeed, Diogenes who famously lived in a jar was of Sinop (then Sinope). When asked by the Great Alexander what he could do for him, he famously have said: "stand out of my sunlight". 

All sorts of fish are freshly available
at Sinop.

Fjord like Hamsilos bay in Sinop.

Akliman Bay in Sinop.

Another explanation for the happiness may be the fact that it is in the furthest northern part of the country with the highest amount of sun light. Indeed, a visit to the light house in Inceburun -the furthest northern tip- is a must. It is one of the fewest places in the world where the sun goes up from the sea to also set into the sea. The easiest way to do that is to rent a car or drive to Sinop. When you head out of town towards the direction of the airport, İnceburun, Akliman and Hamsilos are all in the same direction. Hamsilos with its fjord like shape may also serve as the entry point into a hiking trail that is full of endemic birds. Indeed, natural tourism may easily grow in the area given the waterfalls in Erfelek; lake in Ayancik; natural park at Hamsilos and otters under threat of extinction in the area. There are already tour companies that offer it.

Meydankapi mosaics at Sinop archeological museum.

Another view from the mosaics at museum
of archeology in Sinop.

The Fountain of Martyrs at Yalı Kahvesi, Sinop.

The sea, fish and everyhting sea related is in the soul of Sinop. When the fishing prohibition is lifted as of 1 September, fish shops are full, for affordable prices. And restaurants know how to cook it. Fishermen sit around in Meydan Mahallesi and sometimes at Yalı Kahvesi. The latter is a place for everyone to sip tea or coffee and maybe eat a toast. Its humble ways should not fool you as a fountain nearby attests to its historical significance. Indeed, being the shipyard town and port for the Ottoman Navy came at a price for Sinop. When the Ottomans were "the sick man of Europe", the Russians raided the town in 1853 -known as the Battle of Sinop -as part of the Crimean War. Today, the monument for the fallen soldiers is located in the museum of archeology but at Yalı Kahvesi, the re is a fountain commemorating the event. The Fountain of the Martyrs was built with the moneys left in the pockets of the fallen soldiers. Apparently, the Pasha bastions -first built  in the 15th century- were also not much of help given the denseness of the fog. Today, the bastions are decorated with canons and there is constant sound of shelling in the background that makes it all the more real to imagine. 

Monument for the fallen soldiers
 of Sinop Raid of 1853.

Pasha Bastions in Sinop were first built in 15th century.

Street view from few old houses in Sinop.

If you go to Sinop in the summer, the beaches at Akliman, Karaliman and in the city are clean and thus of the few places in Blacksea coast that is so. Another sea related thing in the city is boat modelling which was initiated by two former inmates that were released from the Sinop Prison. Today, there are many shops but Ayhan Kotra seems to have started it. The other shops are all next to his at Iskele Caddesi. Sinop Prison (Cezaevi) is located next to the fortress by the Blacksea and many political and literary figures in Turkey served time here. Given that location, noone has been able to escape it and many movies have been shot in its alleys and corridors. The prison was closed down in 1999 and serves today as a museum. 

A view from the Sinop Prison (museum) today.

The shape of Sinop is like a peninsula but the locals call it an island. If you have a car, driving it all the way will take you to the other side of the city, amid stunning scenery. Along the way, visit Pasha Bastions and drive up to Boztepe where at low visibility, there is a fog horn that warns seafarers. The sea really is the soul of this city. But you can still indulge in meat and Turkish ravioli at Teyze'nin Yeri.

A view from Ayhan Kotra boat modelling shop.

Little Muscovites in Turkey

At 1800 meters high, in the furthest northeastern part of the Anatolian plateau, totally covered with snow in a vast emptiness, I was one more time taken by my own country that revealed a totally different culture and aura to me. Here I was  in Kars, at the border with Armenia where at one time 19 different ethnicities lived side by side. The first republic of Anatolia (before Republic of Turkey) was also established here although it was a short lived one.  Today it is mostly Kurdish (65%) with Turks and Azeris constituting the largest minority among others.

A view from the Old Town with the Kars river passing through.

This boy from Kars wanted me to put his picture in Facebook.

People from Kars glide on ice and laugh while you barely can take a proper step.

What so struck me was the fact that 40 years of occupation by Russians at the end of nineteenth century left so many 19th century Baltic architecture buildings in the city. (For a city plan in Russian, scroll down). The first time I heard about this heritage was in Nobel winner Orhan Pamuk’s “Snow”. He was describing  events taking place in 3-4 days when the town was cut off by heavy snow from the world. The hero found himself in the middle of political struggles in the city and often walked around decrepit buildings while yearning for love. There was a certain sadness and melancholy accompanying the novel. In Reha Erdem’s “Kosmos”, (for a trailer see http://www.kosmos.com.tr/), this melancholy seemed to be accompanied by the poetic beauty of the snow covering the city. Indeed, Kars seems to have benefited from all this scenery with the former mayor turning it into a movie set.

Another 19th century Baltic style building in Kars: doctors' house.

This is the trade exchange building in Kars, now privately owned.

Otel Ferah in Kars in which Pamuk's Snow is taking place.
Photo: Zeren Göktan.

Turkish politics recently handed another landmark to Kars. Prime minister Erdoğan during the commemoration of the dead soldiers of the First World War in nearby Sarıkamış numbering around 90.000, looked up to the citadel and called a newly erected statue as “monstrosity” and ordered its demolition. It was designed by the artist Mehmet Aksoy, as a result of a competition for the memory of those soldiers. There has been much debate whether it should be torn down because the PM did not like it. When I was there in February 2011, it was one of the tourist attractions of the city but has been removed piece by piece. So much for art that is not liked by (long live) my Sultan! It has been said that this was a maneuver of the prime minister probably to counter balance the publicity created by the collective prayer of the MHP (Nationalist Action Party)  in the Fethiye Mosque in Ani. Located 45 km from Kars, Ani used to be a big town on the Silk Road in Middle Ages. It also happens to be the place where Turks entered Anatolia in 11^th century. The Fethiye (means conquest) Mosque is supposed to be the first place where prayer was held in Anatolia by Turks. Hence, the emphasis of that point by the nationalists.

The twelve Apostils Church in Kars with the Kars castle on the right.

The constitution of the first republic in Anatolia established in Kars.

And the famous, unfinished "monstrosity" in Kars, before its removal.
Photo: Zeren Göktan.

Because it is right at the border with Armenia and partly is in a military zone, Ani remained closed for decades to visit. No doubt Kars will benefit from the opening of the border with Armenia. Even today many Armenians are visiting Ani. Our guide explains the use of dynamite for mining right across the river in Armenia is damaging Ani. Unfortunately, Ani also lies on the North Anatolian fault line which meant it was destructed by earthquakes.

The stone bier of the Fethiye Mosque (to lay the dead) in Kars. Converted from a church,
notice the removal of the vertical peace of the cross.

The interior of the Fethiye Mosque in Kars converted from Aleksander Nevsky Church.

The Fethiye Mosque in Kars at night.

Kars’ economy is based on stock breeding and its cheese and honey are excellent. Recently ski tourism also increased thanks to better air connection. The nearby Sarıkamış has one of the longest  ski-run in Europe and very good quality snow. In the town itself, there is the 12 apostils church which bares the clear hallmarks of Armenian architecture. Along the river there is a Turkish bath and old houses such as Ahmet Tevfik Paşa Palace and on top the castle of Kars. Another interesting building is the former Aleksander Nevsky Church which is today the Fethiye mosque. It was originally built as an army base during the Ottoman-Russian War.

A view from Kars streets.

University of Caucasia, Department of Political Science in Kars.

This square in Kars is covered with typical Baltic style buildings with the one
on the right being the Mayor's residence.

The newly opened University of Caucasia must also be mentioned as it pulls students to the town, contributing to the economy. Built in the beautiful Baltic architecture, the political science department of the university is where political prisoners used to be held in appalling conditions during the military rule in 1980-3. One man, Cemal Kırbayır, is said to have notoriously “disappeared” from here. His 103 year old mother Berfo, recently met prime minister Erdoğan to discuss his whereabouts and other disappearances that have happened in the past. It has been recently confirmed to her by a Parliamentary Commission that it is certain that he died in the hand of the military regime. Today, in the same building, political science students, learn “on site” about power, state and civil society where once the former two were plenty while the latter none. Now, that’s what I call the irony of history:-).

KAMER restaurant in Kars, run by women for victims of domestic violence.

A barber store in Kars.
Photo: Zeren Göktan.

Ahmet Tevfik Paşa Palace in Kars.
Photo: Zeren Göktan.

Not only the architecture but also the politics of the town bore a Russian mark: it voted left in a neighborhood of Turkey with clear conservative tendencies. Indeed people from Kars proudly tell you about the city’s tolerant attitude. In such a small town, restaurants remain open in Ramadan or non fasting people freely smoke in public, something you do not see in 150 km away Erzurum. “Erzurum strangles us when we need to go there. We cannot wait to get back”. No wonder they used to call Kars “little Moscow”. However, with the shift of Kurdish politics from left, Kars no longer votes left. It has one MP from MHP and two from Prime Minister’s AKP, hence the political shows about the statue and the collective prayer from both parties:-).

View from Ani, Kars.
Photo: Zeren Göktan.

View from Ani, Kars.
Picture: Zeren Göktan.

Manuşehr (moon faced) Mosque on the very left in Ani is the first Turkish mosque in Anatolia.
The Fethiye Mosque in the middle is the spot of collective prayer by MHP.

Arpaçay river in Ani, forming the Turkey-Armenia border, Turkey on the left.

When in Kars, you should taste the famous goose, salty but yummy. I would also recommend the KAMER restaurant which is run by women. Its income supports a shelter for women escaping from domestic violence. I tasted “hengel” which can be best described as ravioli without meat.  If you have time, what could make your experience a truly different one would be to take the train to Kars. If not, it is one and half hours of flight from Istanbul. Try staying in Kars’ only boutique hotel Kar's. I would truly hope that the now decrepit Ferah Hotel mentioned in Pamuk’s snow is soon restored. And do not forget to take your camera, small amount of brandy, and warm boots and explore the city on foot at night for a truly romantic experience. The dim lights, the lonely streets, the light reflected from the snow is otherworldly.

On the way to Sarıkamış, these men ride horses without saddle to train them.

And these horses in Kars slide on ice and still carry people.

A shorter version of this post is available at Hurriyet Daily News.