What Angelina did not see: Hatay

I have been meaning to write this but now that Angelina made it to the refugee camps in Hatay (aka Antakya-not to be confused with Antalya!), it is a must. I went to Antakya in the spring of 2010 as the last stop in Turkey (after which I jumped to Syria). It was before the Arab Revolution shook the region and landed Syrians in refugee camps at our border which Angelina visited. It is too bad that the region comes to headlines with all this since it is one of the most interesting and completely underrated places in Turkey.

The frescoes at Antakya Archeological Museum are well preserved.

The most interesting thing about the town is that it as closest as one can get to the old multicultural Turkey, before Armenians were sent to their death in the deserts of Syria; Greeks were exchanged with the Turks in Greece and other Christians and Jews were scared off with Wealth Tax and similar incidents. Indeed, there are so many Christian denominations in the town, one gets confused. I did not even know that there was a Turkish Catholic Church before getting there. Antakya also hosts the only Armenian village in Turkey called Vakıflı. I was there in Easter so I was also surprised to see that the municipality wished a good easter to the Christians. Now that's something that has been long missing in this country.

Men in the streets of Antakya playing back gammon.

A scene from Antakya's 90 years old Affan Kahvesi.

The specialty of Affan Kahvesi in Antakya: haytalı.

The unassuming Affan Kahvesi from outside in Antakya.

Antakya is the last province to join Turkey and in some Syrian maps it is still shown as part of Syria. Not surprisingly, many people speak Arabic as their first language but a different multiculturalism permeates the city. But the hit of the town is definitely the Archeological Museum which is the second largest fresco collection in the world. For more on the mosaics at the time museum click here. 

Back streets of Antakya around Habibi Naccar mosque.

Staples of Antakya: daphne soap and pomegranate syrup, sold everywhere.

The cuisine in Antakya is amazing and one the best places to taste is the Harbiye district amid the trees. Hummus which is rare in Turkey is easily found here and is yummy! Also, you must taste the desert called künefe which contains melted cheese in it. 

Arab influence in the mosque architecture in Antakya:
Habibi Naccar mosque.

A stroll in the bazaar is a must to buy daphne soap as well as pomegranate syrup (perfect for salads) which is like balsamic but of course much betterJ. Close to the bazaar, you can see the old houses of Antakya, even a synagogue. In the same neighborhood, head to Affan Kahvesi, a 90 years old coffee house and taste the special desert called haytalı.  

Cave Church of St. Peter in Antakya.

Antakya makes a wonderful weekend getaway from Istanbul as it is easily reached with frequent daily flights. I stayed in the pretty central boutique hotel Liwan but I read in the tripadvisor that some guests complained about the noise. For more on the hotel, see here. Lastly, one must not leave Antakya before heading to the Cave Church of St. Peter, dating from 2 AD! For more on Hatay (Antakya) click here.

Hillside Su in Antalya: White is for peace, red is for sexy

Antalya has seen a terrible urban sprawl in the last decade but despite all the concrete buildings, nature’s kindness to it still makes it a great place for weekend getaways given its great air connection to all over the world. There is no beating of the Taurus mountains rising behind the city while the Mediterranean Sea shines. Antalya is also a great location to explore the ancient ruins surroundings it: Perge, Termessos, Phaselis, Aspendos.

A look at the gallery of Hillside Su in Antalya.

But there is one hotel, opened in 2003, that has been the winner of many awards over the world and covered in many travel magazines that I will talk about. It is the white decorated Hillside Su. The design hotel has long been a hit of the town with its minimalist decoration that may seem like a space station. Although some call its decoration a “modern mental institution” (courtesy of ZZ), we joke that it was built for business men to have sex with their girlfriends. The crude way thus put, does not do justice to the concept. The hotel indeed makes you wanna lay down all the time. It starts with the entry into the hotel. Unlike in other hotels, you are not greeted by the reception but the lounge which is decorated with comfy white couches full of pillows that feel more like a bed. Many people lay down on them while sipping their cocktails and the disco balls on the ceiling turn and give the atmosphere a celebrity feeling.

The rooms are decorated in white at Hillside Su.

And this is the "Red" restaurant at Hillside Su.

This is where you sip your coctails at night in Hillside Su.

As you proceed to your room, also decorated in white, you realize that in addition to the bed in your room, the balcony also has a bed. Further, the rooms are full of large mirrors, dotted with red accessories and there is a red light in the room as well as in the corridors while the staff is also dressed in white. There is more to your room than you: a gold fish in a bowl can accompany you during your stay. In addition, everything in the room is for sale from the toothpaste in the bathroom to the wine opener in the mini bar.

The gold fish in a bowl, not only in your room but also at the reception of Hillside Su.

The "citrus valley" full of citrus trees on the way to the beach.

In the summer, Hillside Su has a very nice beach and cabana as well as a great pool that you walk after passing an alley with citrus trees which I call the “citrus valley”. The hotel has various food options. I choose “Red” where breakfast  is served but it’s open buffet lunches or dinners are also great options. The Lounge  has a Mediterranean cuisine and you can also have sushi.

This is the view from the elevator to the pool and the beach of Hillside Su.

Overall, the hotel makes you feel like you are in a Tarantino movie, but I must warn that it is not for everybody. Having checked some negative comments on tripadvisor, I can see that too much white may attack your eyes (for my tired urban eyes, it was great), the beds in balconies seem exhibitionist and prices high. Therefore, your best option may be a long weekend stay (but not longer). I still rate it the best place in Antalya especially if you are a couple. For more click here.

No more lying on the beach at the Mediterranean

I have been holidaying on the Turkish Aegean-Mediterranean coast for as long as I can remember. These holidays usually involved relaxing, sunbathing and swimming but not trekking. So in May 2008 we decided to do a three day backpacking tour on the Lykia Trail that has been recently discovered. The trail is an old trade route of 509 km and covers an area from Fethiye all the way to Antalya. It is mountainous, sometimes hard to pass and at times lacks water. However, it is worth your effort because it preserves incredible views of the Mediterranean through the trees and high cliffs. Some of the places are inaccessible by road. Although it is said to be one of the ten best long distance hiking routes, you must be crazy to hike it during summer.

The Gelidonya lighthouse with the Beşparmak (Five fingers) islands.

We flew from Istanbul to Antalya and ended up in Kumluca, 75 minutes from Antalya airport by cab. After passing Mavikent, we started the trail in Karaöz. This turned out to be a dull walk on road side. So we decided to swim in Korsanini bay and hitch hike until the end of the road to start hiking properly. We walked pretty flat for a while. Towards the late afternoon, however, it all got steep. When we finally got to the famous Gelidonya lighthouse, we were exhausted from climbing. According to the Sky Magazine, the name is coming from "kaledonya" meaning swallow (bird in Lykian language). The lighthouse is the highest in Turkey over 200 metres above sea level. It has an incredible view of the Beşparmak islands which was quiet a dangerous passage way for ships in ancient times due to strong currents. Indeed, you can see the currents from high up. The deeps of the sea is said to contain few ship wrecks. 

Olympos beach where caretta caretta turtles leave their eggs.

We decided to sleep in the porch of the lighthouse while others simply put their tents around the available flat surfaces. The best time of the day was when we took out our Chilean wine that we carried all the way from Istanbul. Unlike the college youth around us who were drinking cheap and (warm) beer, old farts like us hike in style and watch shooting stars all night!

Olympos ruins at the end of the Lykia trail by the river.

Next morning we started the day early as the route all the way to Adrasan (13 km) was going to be tough with lots of climbing. This was exacerbated by the fact that in the lighthouse there was no water. Our wine drinking contributed to dehydration and the “stylish travel” turned into complication! The strong May sun did not make things easy either. So what ever water we were left with, we could only wet our lips for 4-5 hours. You can only imagine what happened when we finally found water. We were like cattle! When we reached Adrasan, a nice dinner on the river was definily earned. 

Typical Adrasan restaurants on the river.

Given the trauma of running out of water the day before, we the girls skipped hiking next day and took a cab to Olympos and spent all day at the beach while "our man" hiked the Adrasan-Olympos route of 16km. Olympos is a special place where the little river from the mountains merges with the sea as well as a natural park where sea turtles (caretta carettas) nest. 

Lykia trail from Kaleköy to Üçağız with tombstones.

At night, we walked from Olympos up to Chimaera. This is a natural gas outlet that looks much more romantic at night with the flames going up randomly. Again we took our wine and coffee while watching the flames. But another option not to exhaust yourself yet again is to basically sit on the beach in Olympos and watch the stars amid the waves like many students and backpackers do. What the Lykia Trail  offers in terms of peace, views and nature is pretty addictive. Our next trekking destination on the Lykia trail will be the route from Appellai (in Kaş) to Kaleköy.

Don't you love Turkish English in Olympos? "Keep clear please!"

A shorter version of this post is available at Hurriyet Daily News.

Croatia: Beautiful coast, beautiful people

Croatia has been one of those countries that I went back and again for its beauty, closeness to home and convenience of visa free travel. The last time I was there was 2008. As there is not much to do in Zagreb, I decided that I should also explore the Eastern part of the country which is off the beaten track almost lonely and forgotten. (By the way, there is now more reason to see Zagreb as it seems to host a new museum about break ups.) So after a four hour trip by bus from Zagreb, we arrived in Osijek. The town had such an Austro-Hungarian flair. Indeed in German it was called Esseg and many people still speak German. The main streets are full of art nouveaux houses dotted with shelling left from the war. Indeed, this is one of the parts of Croatia that has been scarred by war.

Art nouveaux building in Osijek, Slavonia region.

Vukovar building with all the marks of shelling.

Vukovar side of the river Danube overlooking to Serbia.

In fact, the one hour trip to Vukovar amid mine signs and decrepit houses shows that the damage to Osijek is mild. Vukovar has been under siege for months…. It is hard to imagine all that when you look across to Serbia over the quiet banks of the Danube river. In the turmoil, the town seems to have lost not only its people but also its soul. The guide book says that Vukovar has seen enough tears and if you want to do something you should contribute to the economy but that is hard to do…unemployed youths abound and there is hardly a spot to eat something proper. So I drink Sprite AND Coke as my contribution….we also visit the Vukovar Memorial and see the cemetery where Serbs and Croats are buried side by side. We are moved by all this and back in Osijek, sipping sljiva, the plum brandy that kicks our butt, we try to make sense of it all at Slavonska Kuca, the eatery serving great river fish and some local delicacies.

Vukovar memorial. 

Next day in the train we answer questions like why we went to Croatia and Osijek of all places, whether we are really Turkish, where our men were, whether we are married, etc. Croatians are similar to Turks in the sense of being proud and disillusioned about their country at the same time. They seem sensitive about being called a Balkan country (like Turks get irritated when called a Middle Eastern country) and think of themselves as Western European. This is especially so in the Adriatic coast with the names turning from Anja and Blanka to Marta, Nina and Laura. Add to that their taste in sunglasses, you can almost forgive  Dalmatians for thinking they must be Italian or something:-). Indeed, service sometimes drives you nuts just like in Italy or France. From the inconvenience of the ferry schedule to restaurants and cafes, the Croatian mind seems to be somewhere else. Even in Zagreb on a Saturday some important museums are closed during the day. 

I want to be get old like these ladies at the Samobor bus station. 

Losing patience towards the end of the vacation, a conversation between me and a waiter in Dubrovnik went like this:

-excuse me, we are in a hurry, can you please expedite what we ordered?

-I am the only one serving, here.

-well life is tough, you need to work harder.  (dear readers, I am not a bitch, I was just fed up with getting an attitude from waiters). Arguably "rudeness is part of the culture" although one can also say that Croatians have the unique combination of communism’s inertia with Western European snobbishness…Never mind all that bitching now. Croatia speaks to your eyes: it is full of beautiful men and women who may be forgiven for all that. Be warned that men who are less than 1.85 meters tall stand no chance whatsoever in this country as they will discover soon that this is standard height for women. Besides, the coast is full of Croatian men (around 2 meters tall) who exercise water polo in the blue waters of Adria… did I say that men in this part of Europe are a little bit macho when it comes to their women…. So beware playboys! Go play with other touristsJ.

Dubrovnik (Ragussa) at the Dalmatian coast with the afternoon crowds.

A view of Dubrovnik and the Lokrum island from the City Walls.

In Dubrovnik we stayed  in Apartments Tina. Not only was the place a charmer but it was very close to Buza, literally meaning the hole. It is basically a small gate in the city walls marked by a humble sign saying “cold drinks”. You pass through the gate and go down the stairs and instead of your morning shower you jump into the water. Dubrovnik is full of great seafood restaurants one of which was Proto. We filled ourselves with oyster, shrimp and lobster and wine…yummy. Dubrovnik itself does not have many beaches so one nice option is Banje, East-West Club right outside the city walls.…or you can go to Lokrum island by boat.

 Family business in Hvar island.

Harbour of Hvar island, Dalmatia.

And our last stop in Croatia is Hvar, the party island! But beware that you must reserve months in advance if you want to stay in Hvar town. The island is not part of mass tourism, spots are limited and quickly fill up. Hvar is really tasteful with its yachts, harbor cafes and people. One perfect spot during the day is Bonj Les Bains with the cabana and beds right by the sea. It also has a nice restaurant, making you feel like “let’s indulge in the pleasures of life”.

After beach party at the sunset in Hvar island.

Every day the after beach party starts at 5 which feels like a bikini club or electronica in the sunset. You cannot help but think “We should have been here when we were 20”J. At night, the spot to be is Carpe Diem. To get a table for our group of eleven, we order those two Belvederes in ice buckets…50 Euros per person so you better dance and sweat that vodka out of your body, all night long. Music ends at 2….Carpe Diem also has a beach right across the island from Hvar. A boat takes you there, so indulge and order a bottle of prosecco and swim drunk after that. So you will spend some money in Hvar but where else do you eat all that scampi, calamari and fish with wine and pay only 25 Euro, certainly not in Istanbul.  Ahh, another trip to Croatia seems just about right at the moment….

Bonj Les Bains in Hvar island, perfect spot for the day.
(All photos: Zeren Göktan)

Beirut: charm and character

Syria-Lebanon border before the war in Syria.
Travelmind keeps the line on wheel while the driver is busy with papers.

Views from streets of Beirut.

I have been to Lebanon three times since 2005. Each time, I have been taken by its beauty, sadness, hedonism and style. Being from Istanbul certainly helps to get a feel for Beirut. You understand its paradoxes better and there are many…its shanty outskirts and glittering high rises, its dynamic polyglot residents versus the undocumented Palestinians, its fluidity between religions and identities, complex politics and the escapism of its people … But coming from a country with a strong state tradition, what I find amazing is that so much of what we admire is built with private initiative of those who believe in this beautiful country. So despite the elusiveness of good government, the city’s continuing renaissance is owed to the resilience of the Lebanese people. 

Red Cross Beirut building with typical architecture.

A view from Cornich, Beirut.

Beirut is pretty easy to grasp and get by and a perfect get away for a long weekend. You can walk to many places in the central and downtown areas or take a taxi but there are no taximeters so you must bargain before you get on. Head to Place D’Etoile and get into one of the cafes for your drink to congratulate yourself to have made it there. You could then hang out in the pretty Ashrafieh around Rue Monot…Later at night, you should indulge in the Lebanese cuisine at Abdelwahab. If hummus and kebabs and arak are not your thing, head to the “Le Sushi Bar” in Ashrafieh. Excellent sushi and wonderful atmosphere with locals…. You are in Beirut after all, even after all that food, you must still be up for clubbing. You can start the night right where you are with the bar of the time in Ashrafieh-Gemayzeh neighborhood. It changes quickly. So talk to locals for the hottest spot. April 2010: Torino Express was nice. Or check www.timeoutbeirut.com. Then head to the famous Buddha Bar with its huge Buddha sitting in the middle of the huge room. It is decorated with beautiful people who love talking to foreigners. Then head to BO18 decorated like a graveyard for some electronic music. When it gets hot, its roof opens up and you can watch the stars.

The Corniche by the Mediterranean for running and walking in Beirut.

If you do all this, next morning you will need Alka Seltzer and strong coffee… after you are back to your senses, you can go visit the National Museum to do a cultured activity and feel less guilty about last night. If you want to remain in the city in the afternoon, you may want some “Vergangenheitsbewaltigung”. Head to Burj Hamud which is the Armenian neighborhood in Beirut. We both know why those Armenians from Turkey live thereL. I have been told that everyone speaks or understands Turkish. Some Turks reported that people have been nice to them while some say they have been hostile. Your luck, I only passed by.

Torino Express in Gemayzeh, Beirut.

Now get the jogging shoes out and take a nice run at the Corniche, next to the sea! This is one of my favorite activities in Beirut which makes me feel like a local especially if I stop by the Starbucks. If you have “A Sunday smile” by Beirut on the I-pod it becomes even more local. On your way, you can pass by the iconic Hotel St.George, finally being renovated or you can look up to see Holiday Inn (former Green Line) still dotted with shelling  to remind you where you are….close to the Light House towards the other direction, there are cosy fish restaurants too. I have also read that the Hamra district is also up and coming finally. This expat's view of Beirut is interesting as an interview  with Ece Temelkuran about the city. 

A glance at the former Holiday Inn in Beirut still dotted with shelling.

Ofcourse Beirut is not Lebanon. For the more adventurous souls who would like to explore the Beqa’a Valley, you could go to Baalbek to see beautiful ruins amid Hezbollah headquarters. No kidding. In fact, the road is dotted with street lamps that have the pictures of martyrs on them. One spot on your way is Zahle, a Greek Orthodox place for lunch.

Views from Byblos.

Another destination for a day trip is South Lebanon. You can drive all the way next to the Israeli border which remains closed. One spot to be seen there is the Al Khiyam Prison which was a notorious detainment camp during the Civil War. Five years ago, a former prisoner guided us inside the prison, explaining how they were electrified and how after the War, Hezbullah brought electricity and all other things. Although he did not ask for any money, we were expected to make a “donation” to you know whom. It was a hard choice for me to decide whether to buy a key chain or a poster of Khomeini.

Byblos sunset in Lebanon.

Another option is to spend the afternoon in Byblos and eat fish after wandering in the souq (Bazaar) and the churches behind, quiet peaceful. Did I say that 15 km away on the way to Byblos, Jounieh is the capital of Lebanese hedonism? Sort of….it has a nice marina and the view with the mountain in the back is awesome.

On the way to Baalbek with love from Hezbullah martyrs on street lamps, Lebanon.

To do these day trips, getting a driver is a good idea especially if your company is not male. Otherwise, you might need to come up with a long story of your imaginary husband waiting for you in the hotel. Or it was just me, being “the magnet for trouble” I am. In the end, do not let these precautionary tales from enjoying you this beautiful place. It is a perfect spot to get married, live or die. Lastly, see this: http://vimeo.com/14345086.